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May 1, 1999

BELGRADE

Bombs Pound Heart and Homes of Serbia's Capital


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    By STEVEN ERLANGER

    BELGRADE, Yugoslavia -- When NATO bombed residential areas of Belgrade for the first time early Friday morning, two errant missiles, meant for military office buildings, hit houses instead.

    Dejan Filipovic, 26, was in his upstairs bedroom on Miruliceva Street when a missile nearly blew him out of the window.

    He scrambled out the rest of the way, over the wreckage of the Zlatni Ovan restaurant, the Golden Goat, breaking only his leg, said his sister, Alexandra.

    "We were in the living room and Dejan was upstairs," Alexandra said, pulling at the sleeves of her sweatshirt as she shifted through the rubble. "My mother went through the window and I followed her, but my father stayed because my brother was upstairs. When he realized Dejan was alive, he climbed out, too. And then it all collapsed, and we all thought we were very lucky to be alive."

    Branko Filipovic, her uncle, said: "These are crazy people to do this -- monsters. There's no military building here."

    Alexandra, an economics student, laughed harshly. "This is one of the 'mistakes' of NATO," she said with all the venom she could muster. "It's just another of those 'mistakes."'

    On Thursday in Washington, Gen. Henry Shelton, the chairman of the Joint Chiefs of Staff, announced that the air war against Yugoslavia had entered the "domination phase."

    Shelton described improving weather and said NATO had planned 670 air sorties through the day and night. "So today's a big one," he said.

    It certainly seemed that way in Belgrade, which had its worst night of bombing, coupled with a presumably unrelated earthquake about 5:30 a.m. People joked that "if NATO doesn't get you, an earthquake will."

    After the earthquake, one shaken person interviewed on Studio B radio said: "Nothing can surprise us now. Only Armageddon, maybe."

    But the deep percussion of high explosives lasted for hours, as NATO chose targets in the heart of Belgrade -- the massive paired 1970s-era buildings of the Defense Ministry and Army General Staff Headquarters, just across the street from the elegant Foreign Ministry, and the federal Interior Ministry, which had seemed to be pretty effectively destroyed earlier in the war.

    Four people died, none of them in the houses that were destroyed in the Vracar district, near the Kalenic market, one of the city's largest. At least one police officer died; he had been doing guard duty by the Interior Ministry, officials said. At least 37 people were hurt; 13 of them seriously. But officials insisted that the Defense and Army buildings had been emptied of workers weeks ago.

    In the morning, the scene around the buildings was somber and eerie, as shocked Belgraders picked their way over a carpet of broken glass and shattered masonry.

    Some gathered on the corners to stare, speaking in hushed voices; others walked along fixedly. Some stopped to pick up a bit of shrapnel and put it in their pockets. Some diplomats, who had come to work to find their windows blown in all over their offices, milled around outside, staring at the shrapnel pockmarks gouged out of the sculpted stones of the facade.

    Workmen with long straw brooms swept the sidewalks and streets, making little heaps of glistening, broken trash before shoveling them into trucks to cart away.

    The oddest sight was of other city workers carefully pulling the weeds from the dirt around trees -- some of which had bent or broken in the blast -- as if a long-ordered city beautification project was being carried out on schedule amid the ruins.

    "What really makes me angry is the Foreign Ministry," said a passer-by named Ilija. "It's one of the most beautiful buildings in the city, and it's like the old civic Belgrade is being destroyed."

    The Foreign Ministry, begun in 1903 and finished in 1936, has lovely arches and windows, with a marble reception area now left open to the elements. Pretty iron bollards on the sidewalks had been broken off and elegant street lights bent or severed.

    Diplomats had made nervous jokes in recent weeks about being across the street from such likely targets. The huge defense buildings, faced with pink stone, were known as Sutjeska, after a Bosnian mountain where Tito fought a grand battle in 1943 and was wounded.

    But there was something shocking about the home of Yugoslav diplomacy being shattered in this remote-control war, an irony immediately seized upon by the ministry spokesman, Nebojsa Vujovic, who noted that the bombing occurred only hours before the arrival of the Russian special envoy for the Balkans, Victor Chernomyrdin.

    "NATO wants to bury under concrete and steel, under the debris, not only the civilian victims but the idea of a diplomatic settlement itself," Vujovic said. "This is an attack on diplomacy as a method to solve the crisis in Kosovo."

    In the Vracar district, an end to the war seemed quite far away. The history of bombing cities in this century is a mixed one, but tends to reinforce patriotism and anger, not diminish it.

    Branko Filipovic had nothing but imprecations for NATO. "This will go on until they have the mercy to stop it," he said. "If the international community does nothing, we won't exist. But we won't give up Kosovo."

    Alexandra said: "I think they cannot know our people and our life here. We're a small country but educated and proud. We're proud to live in this city and we're proud to be Serbs and we will stay proud."

    Then she laughed, describing how her uncle often slept in their house, because he lives so close to the Defense Ministry. "He slept here for 10 days, thinking it was safer," she said. "And now they're both destroyed. Only five minutes before our street was hit, he called us and said everything is smoke and dust."




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